[JamesT]

Hi guys,

Just spent about 2hours with a friend scratching our heads at the fitting of my Garmin 57. I have the Garmin parking cable.

What we have done it take out the current fuse in the PF28 (Heated Steering Wheel) which I do not have anyway and slapped in the ACC (Accessory) cable into that one as I have read online.

The BATT cable which is the always on cable has gone into the horn as that is always on.

Grounding we were attaching that to the bit of metal to the right of the fuse box as we found that was a full ground.

Issue is the cam would come on happily with the ignition but once we that off and locked the car we would see the Garmin 57 try to go into parking mode and it would either get stuck on 1 or give up a turn off. We tried it a couple other times and the best I could get it was for it to just be always on but never parking mode as the light stayed red. If parking mode was on it should be in standby which would mean it would flash.

Can anyone please help cause I have no idea where to go from here.

Many thanks,
James

 

[Wastegate84]

Are you sure the horn is live when the car is locked? I didn't think the horn was always live.

If you search there are some useful guides regarding dashcams and hardwired parking mode.

 

[JamesT]

Are you sure the horn is live when the car is locked? I didn't think the horn was always live.

If you search there are some useful guides regarding dashcams and hardwired parking mode.

My logic behind that was that it goes off with the alarm and it also is live when ignition is off.

I have ordered a piggy back fuse kit thing to just stick into one of the deffo live ones and go from there. Hope this does something.

 

[BOBCDP]

Just checked. Yes horn is live with ignition off. But how did you get a supply without using a piggy back fuse holder?

 

[BOBCDP]

Make sure you fit the piggy back fuse holder the correct way up. Assume in this case it’s the horn fuse you are using. Easiest way to confirm it’s the correct way is to remove the existing horn fuse and plug it into the piggyback in the lower position. The top position is where the red wire gets it’s supply. Now plug it back in and ensure the horn still works. If it doesn’t it’s the wrong way up so plug the piggyback in the other way up and it should then work. Now you can fit the fuse for your dashcam in the upper position in line with the red wire and it will be correct. If it’s the wrong way up the load will be fed through both fuses which is obviously wrong.

 

[JamesT]

Make sure you fit the piggy back fuse holder the correct way up. Assume in this case it’s the horn fuse you are using. Easiest way to confirm it’s the correct way is to remove the existing horn fuse and plug it into the piggyback in the lower position. The top position is where the red wire gets it’s supply. Now plug it back in and ensure the horn still works. If it doesn’t it’s the wrong way up so plug the piggyback in the other way up and it should then work. Now you can fit the fuse for your dashcam in the upper position in line with the red wire and it will be correct. If it’s the wrong way up the load will be fed through both fuses which is obviously wrong.

I will try this again.

Thank you for confirming the horn is live when car is off.

I had been using a cable like this with the red wire connecting to dashcam.

Maybe it just not like this type of cable. (All halfrods had at the time)

I have ordered some like this

Which are the correct ones I have seen people use but halfords were all out. I understand I place the original fuse in the lower slot with a lower amp in the top slot for the dashcam. I have a box of them coming as well which I will use a 5amp fuse for the dashcam as Garmin state the following for the cam

Thank you for your help on this.

 

[BOBCDP]

Not sure how much electrical knowledge you have, but just in case, I assume you realise that the supply that comes from the fuse box via the red wire is 12Vdc and you must drop it to 5Vdc through the Garmin voltage dropper? If you connect it direct it is likely to fry the dashcam. Not sure what you mean by BATT cable. Does that feed require full 12Vdc?

 

[Jeff123]

If you get absolutely stuck, see if Halfrauds will do it of you, obviously at a cost. They fit these things all the time and are pretty good IMO.

 

[JamesT]

Not sure how much electrical knowledge you have, but just in case, I assume you realise that the supply that comes from the fuse box via the red wire is 12Vdc and you must drop it to 5Vdc through the Garmin voltage dropper? If you connect it direct it is likely to fry the dashcam. Not sure what you mean by BATT cable. Does that feed require full 12Vdc?

Did not get a chance to do it today after work today.

Will probably give it a crack tomorrow as working from home.

Just setting it up for tomorrow to make it easier. That is a 5A (5 facing towards the connector so it is the correcy way round I unerstand). That will cover the dashcam.

Then I will place the normal fuse from within my car opposite in the bottom slot so that runs normally.

If anything looks wrong then let me know. Going off my last post with the dashcam amp/voltage specs I pressume a 5amp is what I need due to the output being 3 amps? or would a 3amp fuse be best?

Many thanks

 

[JamesT]

If you get absolutely stuck, see if Halfrauds will do it of you, obviously at a cost. They fit these things all the time and are pretty good IMO.

Yeah this will be my last ditch effort if not good ol Halfrauds will be getting my money.

 

[JamesT]

Did not get a chance to do it today after work today.

Will probably give it a crack tomorrow as working from home.

View attachment 12363

Just setting it up for tomorrow to make it easier. That is a 5A (5 facing towards the connector so it is the correcy way round I unerstand). That will cover the dashcam.

Then I will place the normal fuse from within my car opposite in the bottom slot so that runs normally.

If anything looks wrong then let me know. Going off my last post with the dashcam amp/voltage specs I pressume a 5amp is what I need due to the output being 3 amps? or would a 3amp fuse be best?

Many thanks

After watching a couple vids it seems a 3A will be better than 5. That goes with the specs of max 5 so I will stick a 3A in there.

Again thanks for all the help all.