I made an observation over the past 24 hours. Yesterday we had a run out of 125 miles along fast A roads and motorways along with a few slower A roads due to speed restrictions. The stop/start more or less packed up about 4 weeks ago, which I put down to short journeys and the DPF filter not having chance to regenerate properly. So after the run I expected the S/S to function correctly. No, it didn't. Today I got back in the car and for once did not connect the phone to the USB. The first journey there was no S/S working but coming back home it functioned every time. As I was near the dealer I was going to get it in to have it looked at. When it started working again I decided not to book it in. The question here is because I was so near the dealer and the car was parked within a few hundred yards from the dealer for around 40 minutes. Now can the car electronically link to JLR near a dealer and be checked over?? I don't know. Can the phone actually be blocking any updating if the acceptance of connection to JLR is not granted? Really strange situation that the S/S works faultlessly for weeks on end then just packs up. I have kept the battery topped up fully with a CTEK charger, so it is not battery related. The car should have cleaned the DPF on the first part of the larger journey at 63 miles. The only other thing I can think of was that I had the aircon on all the time but switched it out this morning. In the past the aircon made no difference whatsoever as long as the battery and DPF were 100%. Any thoughts again on the subject??
Stop/Start again a few thoughts
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You can attach a CTEK charger without disconnecting the battery. As others have pointed out you can see jags been charged in dealers' showrooms with chargers attached to the battery terminals.
I have a CTEK but found it awkward to keep getting to the terminals of the battery as it's under my spare wheel and so the dealer fitted a 12v DIN socket for me in the boot; it now takes me a minute maximum to stick it on charge and to disconnect it later.
I have a CTEK but found it awkward to keep getting to the terminals of the battery as it's under my spare wheel and so the dealer fitted a 12v DIN socket for me in the boot; it now takes me a minute maximum to stick it on charge and to disconnect it later.
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Thanks for that, much appreciated, I will get a charger tomorrow, but worth mentioning that a short while ago I was looking battery and discovered that the earth clamp was loose and could be rotated, this will not have helped matters. :roll:Philtrum said:
I am very confused with the start/stop logic, recently in the morning drive to work it hasn't worked, with all the variables as to when it will work, I have tended to think ok so its not happy so it won't let start/stop work.
But then this afternoon when leaving work with lights on etc, it started working, are the fairies charging the battery during the day?
But then this afternoon when leaving work with lights on etc, it started working, are the fairies charging the battery during the day?
Tech told me you should not connect to negative battery post, as this is after part of the battery monitor circuit, black box next to battery post
So I have hard wired in both the CTEK extension plug, and a CTEK Bluetooth battery monitor, to the positive terminal and an earth point at rear of the well, interestingly, looks as though stop/start only works when battery status showing 97% or above, that is one big safety zone
So I have hard wired in both the CTEK extension plug, and a CTEK Bluetooth battery monitor, to the positive terminal and an earth point at rear of the well, interestingly, looks as though stop/start only works when battery status showing 97% or above, that is one big safety zone
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Was it cold in the mornings? If your climate control was busy warming the car in the morning it will inhibit S/S. Maybe it's warmer on the way home....?
I have found my heated screens on auto sometimes come on when I don't know about it and they could drag the voltage down enough too potentially.
Potential voltage? Double negative?
I have found my heated screens on auto sometimes come on when I don't know about it and they could drag the voltage down enough too potentially.
Potential voltage? Double negative?
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·A good idea. I started the new thread because I thought that in the past I had sorted it out and this would just highlight that it wasn't the cure as I thought. I am sriously suspecting the battery but the JLR diagnostics will tell if that is faulty. It's at the dealers as I type.PhilB said:Just merged the two stop start threads together.
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I would be interested to hear the outcome of JLR's test. From all that has been said on the two, (now merged), threads, it really does seem to point to a battery problem, I wonder if anyone who has used a CTEK charger has found that has solved, or at least, helped the problem. I have just been out and bought Halfords version of the CTEK charger, but if using these sort of devices does not solve the problem then I will return it unused.Vespa said:A good idea. I started the new thread because I thought that in the past I had sorted it out and this would just highlight that it wasn't the cure as I thought. I am sriously suspecting the battery but the JLR diagnostics will tell if that is faulty. It's at the dealers as I type.PhilB said:Just merged the two stop start threads together.
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·I have had the BMS update done in the past. My driving does make lots of short journies but the top up with the CTek have usually sorted things out but not this time. I will let you all know what happens. Just as a note, I was given a new XF as a courtesy car today and within half a mile at 9C the S/S was working. The engine was still cold and is a diesel.jaguarnewbe said:
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·Update.
I have the car back now and 3 updates were applied to sofware. Battery management, stop/start and something else not related but not really discussed. They also did a full battery check with printout as part of the checks and all was well. The updates were carried out within an hour this morning. When I left the car it was taken out straight away and then an hour passed before it was taken out again making this around 10.15. Then the battery test was done at around 10.30 from what I saw on the printout to JLR. They also replaced the overhead glasses case as the mechanism failed. (I think this was due to the lube drying out and the spring and ratchet mechanism displacing). The new mechanism is more robust and modified. Then the ritual car wash and vac. So all done by 14.00. So far it all works perfectly.
I have the car back now and 3 updates were applied to sofware. Battery management, stop/start and something else not related but not really discussed. They also did a full battery check with printout as part of the checks and all was well. The updates were carried out within an hour this morning. When I left the car it was taken out straight away and then an hour passed before it was taken out again making this around 10.15. Then the battery test was done at around 10.30 from what I saw on the printout to JLR. They also replaced the overhead glasses case as the mechanism failed. (I think this was due to the lube drying out and the spring and ratchet mechanism displacing). The new mechanism is more robust and modified. Then the ritual car wash and vac. So all done by 14.00. So far it all works perfectly.
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Unless I'm wrong (which I quite often am) you can't tell what updates have been applied unless you ask the dealer what they have done. All new required updates appear on Topix under Outstanding Campaigns if they apply to your car and they should disappear some time after the work is completed. However that system appears to be a bit hit and miss. Mine is now showing updates for camshaft sensor fault and service warning message not displayed. These were done months ago and disappeared off Topix but I notice they are back again. I will have to ring the dealer and ask them.Silverye said:
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·I was told by the dealer that they are all using WASP more which is dealer only as far as I remember him saying. The TOPIX items when done now take ages to shift and are not removed until the warranty claim has been paid by JLR to the dealer.BOBCDP said:
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·Possibly, I know that the dealer I have is normally fully up to date with things.Repairman said:
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·I deliberatley didn't drive the car for two days after the update and the S/S is working normally now as soon as I have travelled around half a mile.
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Not a all happy, I was convinced that the S/S and remote starting problems were battery related and due to me doing only short journeys and the solution would be charging the battery, or that's what I though. Yesterday I bought an expensive Ctek charger, charging the car overnight, (15 hours), this morning attempted to start the car using the remote, nothing, apart from the usual error messages. What I don't understand is that when I first installed the app on my phone, (about 3 weeks ago), the car started 90% of the time, but for the last few weeks, the remote start never works, I get the whirring and clicking sounds from the engine compartment but no start. I really don't know where to go from here. I have yet to see if the S/S is working.
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·Do you have a regenertion on the CTek charger? If so put it through that cycle. If that fails let JLR have a look. 15 hours of charge is an awful long time so the battery may also need JLR testing.jaguarnewbe said:
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Thanks for your information, but I just used the "8 stage" "normal" setting, the Ctek M100) charger has a Recondition setting which I assume equates to a Regeneration setting you mentioned, I will give that a try, thanks again.Vespa said:
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