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Brake disks and pads replacement

3K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  KJW 
#1 ·
Ok, so finally I have changed my disks and pads today. Few thoughts:
First, front are quite straight forward job, only struggle was to take out disks, need to kick them with a hammer from inside to outside turning disk after every hit, not strong hit but gentle. Anyway, I have managed to damage wear pad sensor somehow when refit, I have refitted anyway and no message on dash but need to buy a new sensor and replace.
Rear is straight forward job also after putting EPB in maintenance mode. Procedure presented in other posts work as expected, once in maintenance mode stay there until procedure to take out from maintenance mode is applied. Regarding piston, i have pushed back just by bare hand, pulling caliper towards disk, no tool to rewind or whatsoever.
I have used Zimmerman zinc zoated disks, 316 vented front and 300mm solid rear and brembo pads.

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#5 ·
I can see that now. The fronts aren't immune to corroding like that but from what we've seen on here the rears are normally worse.

I hope your new install lasts longer! I find it baffling that so many people have had to change discs and pads so prematurely.

I had a 2011 Golf that I handed back with over 100k miles on it which was on original discs and pads all round. According to the MOT and service at 100k they weren't even half worn.

With my Jag I managed 80k out of the original discs and pads but the rear discs were heavily corroded on the inner and outer edges. Not even an Italian tune up would clear it.
 
#6 ·
scobie140 said:
Always good when it all goes to plan. XE's are pretty new so not an issue for these cars but when you go changing discs & pads etc on older cars theres always that russian roulette moment of did the bleed nipple slacken or shear :lol:
Best not to touch the bleed nipple unless your also doing a fluid change
 
#7 ·
Wolfie1 said:
scobie140 said:
Always good when it all goes to plan. XE's are pretty new so not an issue for these cars but when you go changing discs & pads etc on older cars theres always that russian roulette moment of did the bleed nipple slacken or shear :lol:
Best not to touch the bleed nipple unless your also doing a fluid change
Although the counter argument is that if the bleed nipples are "exercised" regularly they won't seize into place and then shear when they are finally opened.
This is similar to the long life spark plug dilemma, where modern iridium tipped spark plugs don't need to be changed for up to 100,000 miles - a lot different from the old copper tipped ones which needed changing every 12,000 miles or so.
Trouble is, if you leave them in untouched for 100,000 miles, they'll almost certainly be seized into the head and will either break off or, if the head is alloy, will bring the thread out with them when they finally budge!
 
#8 ·
chrisjp said:
Wolfie1 said:
scobie140 said:
Always good when it all goes to plan. XE's are pretty new so not an issue for these cars but when you go changing discs & pads etc on older cars theres always that russian roulette moment of did the bleed nipple slacken or shear :lol:
Best not to touch the bleed nipple unless your also doing a fluid change
Although the counter argument is that if the bleed nipples are "exercised" regularly they won't seize into place and then shear when they are finally opened.
This is similar to the long life spark plug dilemma, where modern iridium tipped spark plugs don't need to be changed for up to 100,000 miles - a lot different from the old copper tipped ones which needed changing every 12,000 miles or so.
Trouble is, if you leave them in untouched for 100,000 miles, they'll almost certainly be seized into the head and will either break off or, if the head is alloy, will bring the thread out with them when they finally budge!
That's the thought process behind it. Drilling and tapping a sheared bleed nipple is a pain in the *ss. It also makes pushing the piston back in by hand a doddle since your not forcing the fluid back through the full breaking system. I always give the fluid a flush any time I do the brakes, easy enough to do and top spec brake fluid isn't that expensive.
 
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