I had to drill out the tops of the torx screws holding on the disks because they were too corroded to unscrew (at least after Plusgas and some serious effort) . I was toying with the idea of drilling out all the bolt. However it appears to be about 10 mm diameter and is probably steel. The hub appears to be alloy. I'm thinking that the alloy thread probably would not survive. Has anyone achieved this?
Obviously the alternative is to just put on the new disk and trust the caliper carrier and the wheel bolts.
If you do try to drill it out, buy a left handed drill.
Tip for next time. Put the flat face of a pall pein hammer on the screw and hit it with another hammer. If it still won't loosen, try the ball face and hit with another hammer. Heat will always help.
If you do try to drill it out, buy a left handed drill.
Tip for next time. Put the flat face of a pall pein hammer on the screw and hit it with another hammer. If it still won't loosen, try the ball face and hit with another hammer. Heat will always help.
Hitting two hammers together is a bit dangerous as small shards of shrapnel can come off into skin or eyes. In my opinion better avoided. Heat, yes and plenty of soaking with easit (penetrating oil) Time is the essence with the penetrating oil.
Putt a lot of penetrating oil and leave to soak and after try to undo the bolt. If it snap will be no big trouble as that bolt don't have to much role.
The hub/stub shaft will be steel. The main function of the screws is to stop the disc coming away from the hub and allowing rust to fall between them when you remove the wheels.
For future reference, the best way to get these out is with a manual impact driver - the type that holds a screwdriver bit and you hit with a hammer to undo the screw.
The hub/stub shaft will be steel. The main function of the screws is to stop the disc coming away from the hub and allowing rust to fall between them when you remove the wheels.
For future reference, the best way to get these out is with a manual impact driver - the type that holds a screwdriver bit and you hit with a hammer to undo the screw.
Thank you all for these pointers. It did have a week of Plusgass and I did whap it with a punch. I was too mean to buy an impact driver. Interesting about rust falling down the back on a wheel change. That would give a shimmy. There was rust creeping in and you have convinced me it is steel. I'll drill it out with a CCW drill direction.
For completion, I did drill out the M10 steel screws and preserved the thread in the steel hub. The new disks went on with A4 Allen countersunk and a touch of copper grease.
Thank you all.
I'm something of a novice obviously- in my retirement. I took the Jag for an initial bedding in this afternoon. So much better without the rust but I notice the front disks have only been resurfaced in the middle third of the radius. I suppose the trick is to wear the disk / pad interface over the whole radius, before the rust sets in. Hey ho!
I'm something of a novice obviously- in my retirement. I took the Jag for an initial bedding in this afternoon. So much better without the rust but I notice the front disks have only been resurfaced in the middle third of the radius. I suppose the trick is to wear the disk / pad interface over the whole radius, before the rust sets in. Hey ho!
The strange thing about the disc situation is after 6 years my discs are still clean metal with the only rusting on the outer 1/4" (or less) of the front and rears.
The strange thing about the disc situation is after 6 years my discs are still clean metal with the only rusting on the outer 1/4" (or less) of the front and rears.
My one was far worst on front, probably half of surface was rusted sign that brake pads didn't touch the surface. Initially I thought that maybe are wrong size pads but when changed with after market one, I compare original with after market and size was identical. I saw many Jags with the same rusty ring on outer edge of the disk.
It may be of interest to my helpful Jaguar colleagues that I fitted Brembo disks and pads. I went to Carparts4less aka ECP. Brembo seemed to be making a thing of their painted surfaces. I wasn't able to establish what is painted. Obviously the vented inner and near hub outside surfaces were. The Brembo pads cover almost all of the 325/ 328 sized disk, just not the outer few mm. The new pads are the same size as the old. I'm assuming that the pads need a lot of bedding in to get parallel with the disks and therefore keep rust at bay. But maybe there is more to it! Anyway, I was taught that brakes are to be used sparingly. Obviously I need to change my habits.
My 530d bmw has regenerative braking in eco mode. The alternator charges the battery rather than using the brakes. Is there anything of that in the XE? I get the impression the car stays in a lower gear going downhill- sometimes…
There is, yes. During deceleration the car will sometimes increase the alternator output to charge the battery above the usual target, and alternately (pun intended) reduce the output under acceleration to save load on the engine.
Regarding the disc wear, this is down to the design of the calipers rather than disc/pad brands. Some good heavy braking now and then helps to keep them even.
I rarely do sprited slam on foot down type of driving but try to avoid too much winter driving. Maybe I am not getting the salted road treatment as much on my car. By the way Jaguar disc are Brembo made as shown by one poster on here. When he changed his discs they were stamped Brembo.
I rarely do sprited slam on foot down type of driving but try to avoid too much winter driving. Maybe I am not getting the salted road treatment as much on my car. By the way Jaguar disc are Brembo made as shown by one poster on here. When he changed his discs they were stamped Brembo.
Hi again. As you know the XE has the calliper mounted on slider bolts with a slip spring to the calliper carrier on the outside, with one piston inboard. I would think that is quite common.?
Six Scottish winters! My work life was in the London area. Up here they seem to put salt down from October to May. There was much less salt about in the South East.
I was aware of the rust but the break warning sensor tripped on the front. It is on the inside near side. It was practically down to the metal. All the other pads had five or more mm, including the outside near side. I guess the calliper was not sliding , or the piston was sticking. Handy the sensor was in the only pad heavily warn!
Can one source softer pads than Brembo that fit (obviously)?
Am I correct in thinking the R sport has 350 sized disks on the front?
Hi again. As you know the XE has the calliper mounted on slider bolts with a slip spring to the calliper carrier on the outside, with one piston inboard. I would think that is quite common.?
Six Scottish winters! My work life was in the London area. Up here they seem to put salt down from October to May. There was much less salt about in the South East.
I was aware of the rust but the break warning sensor tripped on the front. It is on the inside near side. It was practically down to the metal. All the other pads had five or more mm, including the outside near side. I guess the calliper was not sliding , or the piston was sticking. Handy the sensor was in the only pad heavily warn!
Can one source softer pads than Brembo that fit (obviously)?
Am I correct in thinking the R sport has 350 sized disks on the front?
My R-Sport 2.0D have 316 mm front. Had the same issue on Mondeo MK4 few yrs ago. All pads was half way, all disks and pads replaced at the same time, just one, inner on rear passenger side was gone completely. Caliper was looking like sliding correctly. I'm thinking that even if piston is little bit stuck but caliper is sliding freely, pads will wear evenly.
I had my front discs and pads replaced by Halfords as needed doing quickly. The pads make a lot of dust on the wheels. I understand that the normal jaguar pads are ceramic? So little dust? Are there after market ceramic pads?
Thanks
I fitted Brembo from carparts4less. I used that supplier as they were cheaper than ECP, who are the same people, seems to vary with discount codes etc. (The two suppliers part numbers are the same.) The Brembo pads looked identical to the original fit so probably a ceramic mix.
I fitted a Pagid wear sensor. It was a perfect match.
Carpartts4less collected an unwanted sensor using DPD at no cost to me. Their email customer service was slow but the phone service was fine, to get a return authorisation number.
Update on the new Brembo disks and pads. The first bedding in run, about 50 miles round trip and I noticed the rear disks were hotter than the front. After cooling, a five mile drive with no braking resulted in the rears being warm, the front not. Wheels off, I disassembled the calliper springs and pushed back the pistons, after putting the parking brake in service. There were no issues with free movement on the sliders. It's just that the spring pulls the calliper in from parallel towards the hub. So we have too wear the ceramic pads to parallel . I can confirm the disks were coated because 95% of the back disks are showing the red colour of oxidised metal now, whereas only the centre third is showing early rust on the front disks, the rest remaining bright and shiny. Resetting the parking brake from service threw up a service required warning. I didn't push the pistons back first so perhaps that annoyed it. I cleared the warning with the usual bonnet, door open, ignition on, press brake and throttle ten seconds malarky. Maybe some of this will be of use to others. It's certainly a learning trip for me.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Jaguar XE Forum
143.5K posts
10.3K members
Since 2014
A forum community dedicated to Jaguar XE owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!